I was standing in line along with dozens of young women like myself, decked out in vintage Levis and wicker baskets, waiting to purchase exorbitantly priced spray free vegetables at the Grey Lynn Farmers Market when I began to feel self conscious. Do any of us actually care? Or do we want to look like we do? Are the heirloom tomatoes grown in our back gardens and ceramic ‘keep cups’ filled with organic cold brew genuine efforts towards a more sustainable lifestyle, or just virtue signalling of the middle class? Its hard not be cynical.

Despite myself, I cant help but want to be a part of the urban dinner party Forest Pop Ups. With a similar ethos to the Crowd Grown Feast hosted in Silo Park in 2014, Forest Pop Ups serve small, considered, elegantly portioned dishes like ‘sunchoke tomatillo and pickled flowers’ and ‘spring onion chips with corn silk mayo’ for $87 a place. So out of my reach. As much as I would love to support locally grown food and resilience of supply in urban areas I don’t think this is it. Food is a right, food is humble, food is necessary.

I’ve met a couple of organisers and contributors to this event and I think they’re genuine people with good intentions. But food is too important to be overshadowed by aesthetics and the latest trends; after all, any movement that isn’t inclusive, will struggle to be radical. I think to make significant changes in our food system everyone has to feel like they have a seat at the table.